Off of I-19 headed from Tucson south to Mexico lies the Tohono O’oodham Nation’s reservation. As you approach this sovereign yet long since subjugated people’s tribal territory, glistening in the bright desert sunlight rises a magnificent white emblem of their history, America’s policy of manifest destiny history, and the history of Spain’s Conquistador’s all gently blurred at the edges by time and romantic notions – the San Xavier del Blac Mission.
The Mission, initially established by the Jesuit priest Fr. Kino more than 300 years ago, was not this beautiful church itself. No, instead, it was the message of Christ and his love brought to a nation, in Spain’s estimation, of heathens in desperate need of salvation. No telling what the “heathens” themselves thought. The Mission has survived, transferred hands to the Franciscans, then abandoned at one point by the Roman Catholic Church completely for some 70 years, only to have the Catholic church return in 1912 to find that the Tohono O’oodham had, for their part, maintained their unique blend of Catholic Christianity and traditional religion. Today the Mission still functions as an active Roman Catholic parish and school. And it is magnificent. Continue reading